How to Use the One Trick Pony Wine Bar in North Fitzroy

How to Use the One Trick Pony Wine Bar in North Fitzroy

One Trick Pony is a rebirth in more than one sense. The corner it occupies is no longer home to the North Fitzroy Star Pub, which has been developed into townhouses, but the bar is a small reclaiming space for locals.

It’s also a rebirth of Chris Terlekar’s culinary career. Before Bluebonnet’s barbecue program began eight years ago, Terlikar worked in fine-dining restaurants, including in London, Vancouver, and at Public in New York.

“It’s great to have that freedom again,” he says. “There are only so many times you can cook breast meat.”

Trout with radishes and eggs wrapped in a marigold pie. Photo: Pete Dillon



At One Trick Pony, Terlikar oversees a small menu that changes every week, one of the luxury of a 28-seat restaurant.

Cavatelli rabbit, pig head terrine, and turbot with broad beans have recently been spotted on the menu, along with less popular proteins like beef or goat heart. It can be paired with a dry martini or a Manhattan from a cocktail cart driven by manager Simon George Gamelin (former supper club).

Otherwise, 150 bottles of mostly European and Australian wines line the shelves downstairs—just add a $25 corkage. Ben Skipper’s menu (formerly San Crispin) highlights mostly minimal involvement in winemaking; A bluestone vault will be used for special drops.

One Trick Pony's small but perfectly formed space was commissioned by IF Architecture.

One Trick Pony’s small but perfectly formed space was commissioned by IF Architecture. Photo: Pete Dillon



Terlikar and partner Shayne McConachy have been waiting three years for the restaurant to appear. At that time they had a baby, who was born 15 weeks earlier.

IF Architecture designers installed copper shelves in their basement wine store, with an elongated gray marble strip for a handful of seating. The dining room on the first floor is stripped of white walls and timbers, leaving room for murals by Terlikar’s brother, Joe. His small paintings are an ode to neighborhood buildings, residents, and natural landmarks, and will continue to multiply in number.

“We know the customers, love the neighborhood, it’s a great little pocket in Melbourne,” says Chris Terlekar.

We asked him for his tips on how to get the most out of a visit to One Trick Pony.

What three dishes should you order?

From today’s menu, I’ll go for the Koo Wee Rup asparagus with smoked Dutch tomatoes, and Tete de Moine cheese. Add roast beef heart with green sauce and pickled shallots. And people love the salted salmon in the amaranth. I tube and tube cannoli in a mix of trout, cream fresh, and radish, then finish it off with Yarra Valley Caviar Bloody Shiraz Gin.

150 bottles of wine line the shelves, pick and drink on site for a $25 corkage fee.

150 bottles of wine line the shelves, pick and drink on site for a $25 corkage fee. Photo: Pete Dillon



What is your choice of drinks menu?

I love anything from the cocktail cart. Simon is a very charismatic man, so it is difficult to refuse anything from his bandwagon. He makes an incredible martini, using Hayman’s gin, and mixes it up at the table.

Best seat in the House of Representatives?

I don’t think there is anything bad to be honest. Either you’re sitting by the kitchen or you’re sitting at the window, looking out over the roundabout we’re sitting on and a lovely little pocket from Fitzroy North. There are only 28 seats and the space is about 35 square metres, so there really isn’t a bad spot.

Do people need to book?

We get a lot of visits but our reservations fill up on the weekends.

What is the best time of day to visit?

I would say anytime near sunset. Have a seat upstairs and watch the light change.

Open daily from 5.30 pm to 10 pm

6 Newry Street, North Fitzroy, 039482 2247, otp-wine.com.au


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